There are different types of fabric you can use and some important techniques to follow when skinning but I will refer you to Chris Cunningham’s excellent book on this. I buy my fabric from George Dyson in Washington and he will send you a good description of all the fabrics he has available to help with your decision. His address is on the side bar. I covered my first kayak with 3 oz aircraft Dacron and it looked great because it shrinks so much with heat that it eliminates all wrinkles but it is expensive and very thin so I don’t recommend it.
Creating twine recesses on chines with Dremel helps to reduce bumps in skin Tried a new 2 piece keel strip design which keeps the twine from making bumps in the skin without having to thread it through holes. It also allows the keel to be positioned straighter after lashing. (Glued and pegged)Nice flat bottom adds a lot of stability Very happy with the symmetry on this one.
5 mill strips of cedar bend easily after a few minutes in the steamer. I let them dry for a day, then glue them up. Urethane glue is probably the best but these things are never submerged long enough to hurt them. I make the masik oversize so I can carve it into the desired shape to fit the gunwales and flatten the top to lower the front of the coaming. I use the same form to make the 2 curved deck beams but I don’t clamp the ends when gluing to give them shallower curves.
Spreaders set the shape by moving along the gunwales till you get what you want for volume. This one is going to be 21″ at the midpoint and moderately full for and aft.